"Simple components, but when being put
together in the wrong way..., well, our Chinese friends
did. Result: clicking noises inside the bearings when the
inner rings are rotated. (Well, forced to rotate that
is.) Using the axle and turning with quite some force,
the rings start to rotate. One can feel the balls falling
from one pit into the next one, click, click. All four of
my (new!) wheels show the same problem. The wheels do
rotate, but considerable amounts of energy go into these
bearings. These bearings will not last long after being
mistreated during assembly. What a pity. All the wheels
have new FYB brand bearings, but they are now only good
for the scrap bin. I can only assume, but it is likely
that during assembly the main pressing force was applied
via the inner rings using hard blows with big hammers.
Wrong! Disassembly
procedure:
Now that the bearings are
candidates for the scrap bin or at best for decorating
your chimney, you can use brute force to get them out.
See pictures 3 and 4
Use a piece of 10mm
thread, two nuts, a stable pressure ring against the
inner spacer, two distance keepers and a stable bridge
(may be a 10mm steel plate as well) and lock everything
up.
Start applying pressure
and if nothing moves, really tighten the nuts and hit the
inner end of the thread with a big steel hammer. Now the
bearings will move two at a time. Repeat until only
turning one nut (fixing the other one) keeps one moving
the bearings out.
Take out all parts
including the big inner spacerthe one with the
large flanges holding lots of grease.
Buy new 6204 bearings. The
best are the two-sided sealed bearings (6204-2RS)
Assembly procedure:
When assembled in this
construction, the press force must be applied to the
outer ring of the ball bearing. You need a simple tool
which leaves the inner ring free while making contact
with the outer ring. You may use the inner ring to hold
the tool together, but only for that. See pictures 2 and
5.
Start with the inner ball
bearing, the one closest to the brake. Grease the whole
bearing inner-case so that rust has no chance.
Use temperature as a tool.
Put the tool with the ball bearing inside a plastic bag
and put it in a freezer (-18°C) for a couple of hours.
Use a hot air blower and heat up the bearing-case from
the inside up to the point where a bit of water just
starts to boil. (Mind the paintwork!) Work quickly and
you can insert the frozen bearing (plus the extra rings
and bushes belonging to the inner side) without any
force. The whole thing falls into place. A tick with the
plastic hammer on top of the tool and the inner ball
bearing is at its position.
Take out the tool and use
the same procedure for the outer ball bearing. Here it's
more easy. After putting in the spacer and having the
temperatures right, you can drop in the outer bearing. If
it stops on its way, use the pressure tool. Apply
pressure via the outer ring and it will jump to its final
position.
Very important: At the
final stage, when the outer bearing is reaching its final
position, do not apply too much force! If you do, the
inner ring will have to pick up that force via the big
inner flanged spacer and will be put under permanent
axial force which we wanted to avoid in the first place!
If done correctly, the
inner rings can be rotated by using your fingertip and
these bearing will outlive the rest of the bike.
Felt ring seal:
In my bike one of the four
feltring assemblies showed a worn out felt ring.
Replacement is easy (use 5x5mm felt which you can buy per
meter for a few cents). See picture 1.
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