Sidecar brake installation
from
Kent Berg These
photos show the sidecar brake installed on an M1 Super.
The kit is easy to install, but it comes without
instructions so it takes a while to figure out all the
items and where they go. The kit is expensive and you
will need a good quality welder, preferably a MIG.
First, don't expect a 100% improvement on braking. This
kit does help, but the brakes are still poor quality. We
currently have many sets of the brake shoes redone with
USA quality semi-metallic pads. This alone will improve
the braking many times over the old shoes and they will
last much longer. They don't fade like the CJ shoes.
To installand this is a quick set of
instructionsyou need to remove the wheel on the
sidecar and the inner dust plate. Make sure no washers
are left on the axle shaft. The kit comes with a ½"
thick, metal oval washer that's welded to the axle arm on
the bike. Placement is done with the new brake hub on the
shaft for alignment. The oval washer is not thick enough
and may require a spacer to reach the slot on the brake
carrier. This is then welded on, and it has to be a SOLID
weld as it's under pressure. Then,the brake carrier slips
on the shaft and mates up with the oval washer. The cable
runs along the rear crossmember and comes out near the
fender. All brake hardware is replaced at the rear wheel.
The rear link is replaced as the brake kit comes with a
shorter metal rod and it installs backwards from the
factory setup. (SEE PHOTO.) At the brake pedal arm you
now have a three-way pivot instead of the single arm from
the rear brake. The cable kit comes with a bolt/holder
for the cable end at the brake arm. This again requires
welding a thick washer (not in kit) so you can bolt the
new cable holder to it. On my bike we had welded a mount
for the footpeg so we welded the end only to the bolt
going through. It's cleaner, but not everyone has the
rear foot peg where we do.
Then it's a matter of adjustment for both brakes. Keep
the sidecar brake a bit tighter then the rear so it does
not pull you to the left under braking. That's it.
Remember, the pads are poor so don't expect massive
braking. When we get the new pads in, we will retest but
expect a major improvement as the pads are the key, not
the hubs.
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